Sewing Machine Needle Chart Size: A Complete Guide to Choosing the Right Needle Size for Your Project

What is a Sewing Machine Needle Chart?

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The sewing machine needle chart is based on different needle types, sizes, and purposes in one simple reference, making it easier to choose the right needle for any project. With so many needle options available, a chart can save time and avoid mistakes, helping you avoid common issues like skipped stitches or fabric damage.

Using the correct needle size and type enhances your stitching quality and protects your fabrics. Let’s list down needle sizes, and types, and which ones to choose for specific materials and projects.

Sewing Machine Needle Sizes Explained

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Needle sizes generally range from 60/8 to 120/19, with the first number indicating the European size and the second, the American size. Smaller needles, like 60/8, work best with lightweight fabrics, while larger needles, like 100/16, are designed for heavier materials.

Here's a quick list down:

• 60/8 to 70/10: Thin, lightweight fabrics (e.g., silk, chiffon).
  
  

• 80/12 to 90/14: Medium-weight fabrics (e.g., cotton, linen).
  
  

• 100/16 to 120/19: Heavyweight fabrics (e.g., denim, canvas).

Understanding these sizes ensures that the needle matches the fabric, providing the best stitch quality and reducing wear on both the needle and fabric.

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What to Consider When Choosing a Sewing Machine Needle?

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Choosing the right sewing machine needle depends on fabric type, thread type, and project requirements.

• Fabric type: Different fabrics have unique textures and densities.
  
  

• Thread type: Some needles are specialized for delicate or heavy threads.
  
  

• Project requirements: Quilting, embroidery, and general sewing often use specific needles to enhance results.

Consider these elements when choosing a needle, and refer to a needle chart as a quick guide.

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Sewing Machine Needles Consist of Several Parts

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Every sewing needle includes these essential parts:

• Shank: The top of the needle, fits into the machine.
  
  

• Shaft: Main body, varying in thickness to match fabric types.
  
  

• Eye: The hole where the thread passes through, is important for smooth stitching.
  
  

• Point: The needle tip, passes through the fabric.

Understanding every part helps in identifying the correct needle for different tasks.

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Sewing Machine Needle Types

Here’s a closer look at popular sewing needle types, including their sizes, features, and best uses:

Universal

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• Sizes: 70/10 to 100/16
  
  

• Features: Slightly rounded point, versatile
  
  

• Fabric Use: Suitable for most woven and knit fabrics.
  
  

Jersey (Ballpoint)

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• Sizes: 70/10 to 90/14
  
  

• Features: Rounded point, designed to avoid snags
  
  

• Fabric Use: Best for knits and stretchy fabrics.
  
  

Stretch

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• Sizes: 75/11 to 90/14
  
  

• Features: Specially designed for stretchy materials, reduces skipped stitches.
  
  

• Fabric Use: Good for spandex, Lycra, and elastic fabrics.
  
  

Jeans

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• Sizes: 90/14 to 110/18
  
  

• Features: Strong, sharp point for thick fabrics
  
  

• Fabric Use: Perfect for denim, canvas, and other heavy fabrics.
  
  

Metallic

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• Sizes: 80/12 to 90/14
  
  

• Features: Larger eye for delicate metallic threads
  
  

• Fabric Use: Suited for metallic and specialty threads.
  
  

Quilting

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• Sizes: 75/11 to 90/14
  
  

• Features: Tapered point to handle multiple layers
  
  

• Fabric Use: Designed for quilting cotton and similar fabrics.
  
  

Embroidery Needle

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• Sizes: 75/11 to 90/14
  
  

• Features: Larger eye for specialty threads
  
  

• Fabric Use: Best for machine embroidery on light to medium fabrics.
  
  

Topstitch

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• Sizes: 80/12 to 100/16
  
  

• Features: Sharp point with a larger eye, smooth stitching
  
  

• Fabric Use: Suitable for topstitching, and decorative stitches.
  
  

Leather

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• Sizes: 80/12 to 110/18
  
  

• Features: Chisel point to penetrate leather without tearing
  
  

• Fabric Use: Best for leather, vinyl, and non-woven fabrics.
  
  

Gold Embroidery

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• Sizes: 75/11 to 90/14
  
  

• Features: Coated for durability with metallic threads
  
  

• Fabric Use: Specialty embroidery on delicate fabrics.
  
  

Hemstitch

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• Sizes: Varies
  
  

• Features: Winged needle, creates openwork in fabric
  
  

• Fabric Use: Suitable for heirloom stitching.
  
  

Double Eye

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• Sizes: Varies
  
  

• Features: Two eyes for dual threads, creating decorative effects
  
  

• Fabric Use: Best for unique decorative stitching.

Which Sewing Needle for Which Fabric?

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Referencing a needle chart can help you match needle type and size to your fabric. Heavier fabrics like denim need stronger, thicker needles (90/14 or higher), while lighter fabrics like silk use smaller sizes (60/8 or 70/10).

How to Determine the Size of a Sewing Machine Needle?

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The needle’s size is generally etched on the shank, helping you to identify it quickly. When in doubt, check out the needle chart for guidance.

Printable Sewing Machine Needle Guide

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For convenience, many sewers keep a printable needle guide nearby as a reference for needle types and sizes. This quick guide simplifies the process of choosing the right needle without guesswork.

Hand Sewing Needle Size Chart

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Hand-sewing needles follow a different sizing system. These needles come in various types (like embroidery, beading, and quilting needles) and are often chosen based on the fabric's density and the thread's weight.

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